Is Your Skincare Routine Actually Working? Here's How to Tell
Published 2026-02-27 • Summer House Editorial Team
The skincare industry is extremely good at making products feel effective without necessarily being effective. Tingling, tightening, a pleasant smell, a satisfying texture — none of these tell you whether anything is actually changing in your skin. Here's how to evaluate your routine honestly and figure out what's working, what's not, and what you might be missing.
What 'Working' Actually Means
Skincare works in two broad categories: barrier support and active treatment. Barrier support — moisturizers, ceramide-based products, gentle cleansers — works by keeping skin hydrated, protected, and calm. You know it's working when your skin feels comfortable, doesn't feel tight or dry after cleansing, and isn't reactive or inflamed. That's a real outcome, even if it feels boring.
Active treatment — retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide, chemical exfoliants, growth factors — works by changing something: stimulating collagen, brightening pigmentation, increasing cell turnover, or strengthening the barrier at a structural level. These take longer to evaluate — 8 to 12 weeks is the minimum for most active ingredients to show visible results. If you've been using a product for two weeks and aren't seeing results, that's not a failure; it's just not enough time.
Honest Markers That Your Routine Is Working
Your skin should look consistently better in the morning than it did six months ago — not better after a fresh application, but better at baseline. Look at photos taken without filters under consistent lighting conditions six months apart. Changes in skin tone evenness, texture, and the depth of fine lines are visible in photos if the routine is truly working. If you can't see any difference in consistent documentation, something in the routine isn't doing enough.
Your skin should also be tolerating actives without chronic irritation. Mild initial irritation with retinoids is normal — persistent redness, flaking, or sensitivity that doesn't resolve after four to six weeks suggests you're over-treating. Over-treatment breaks down the skin barrier and paradoxically makes aging worse. A routine that leaves your skin consistently reactive is not a routine that's working.
Common Reasons a Routine Stops Working
The most common culprit is product rotation without enough patience. If you're switching products every four to six weeks because you're not seeing results, you may never stay on anything long enough to see what it would do. Pick a core routine, stick with it for three months minimum, and document honestly. The exception is anything causing persistent irritation — stop that and reassess.
The other common issue is using products that feel nice but don't contain effective concentrations of active ingredients. The skincare market is full of products with low-concentration 'hero ingredients' used primarily for marketing purposes. Medical-grade skincare from a medspa or dermatologist isn't just upselling — the formulas are designed for results rather than retail margins, and the concentrations actually match what the research supports.
FAQ
How do I know if my vitamin C serum is actually working?
After 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use (every morning, before SPF), you should see some improvement in skin brightness and evenness. Vitamin C also provides antioxidant protection that doesn't show up as a visible result but reduces long-term sun damage. If your skin looks brighter and more even after three months, it's working. If there's no change and no irritation, the product may be under-concentrated or poorly formulated.
Is medical-grade skincare actually better than drugstore or department store products?
For active ingredients, generally yes. Medical-grade formulas are regulated for concentration and stability in ways that over-the-counter products aren't. Retinol concentration, for example, varies widely in consumer products. The gap between a prescription retinoid and a high-street retinol serum is significant in terms of what's actually in the formula and what it will do over time.
Need help now?
Talk to the team at Summer House Medspa about whether your skincare routine is actually pulling its weight — and what to add or change.